In light of recent events- not our family, but a compatriots’- might as well blog about what’s been a dominant topic around the household lately. What do you do, and what should you know, if you want to help an obviously lost dog?
- Probably the dog is very stressed and frightened. Some dogs are so people-oriented they feel immediately relieved when they see a person that isn’t being obviously threatening and will come right to them, but most aren’t and won’t. If you want to help more directly than just leaving some food or shelter around, first you have to help the dog see you as friendly. Crouch down and turn your body and gaze away. Talk sweetly and in a slightly high pitch, and calmly- you’re not about to turn terror into happy excitement, but you might get curiosity with calm. Think about what you call the dog- you won’t know its name, but lots of dogs have been called “puppy” by friends and family in their lives and will respond to it as though it were another name. “Sweetie” or “honey” sometimes work as well.
- Keep in mind how you’re coming off if the dog is far off and you must approach. If you were in a strange place and stressed because you didn’t know how to get home or how to get to a safe place, how would you feel about a stranger moving in a purposeful, silent straight line at you? Probably, you would move away, and if you felt cornered you might be getting ready for a fight. Most dogs will react the same way unless they are so friendly any human is a welcome sight.
- Avoid threatening touch. Don’t loom, or open by reaching over the dog’s head and neck. If the dog isn’t tensing or pulling away, light scratching to the chest and neck can be a way to introduce yourself. Try inviting the dog to come with you before you try to pick it up. Dogs aren’t stupid, and don’t have to be taught “come” or “heel” to recognize an invitation; the question is whether coming with you seems like a good idea. Lots of dogs know riding in a car and will hop through an open car door before they will necessarily let a stranger pick them up. Leashing is also easier than picking up, if the dog is wearing a collar, or if you can pass the clip of a leash through its loop and make a makeshift slip lead.
Once you get the dog home, or into your yard, or otherwise a safe setting:
- He may have been lost and running a long time. When touching or examining him or her, be very gentle with legs, joints, and feet. They probably hurt right now.
- Offer plenty of fresh water. You might want to do this outside at first, or in limited amounts in stages, as if the dog is very thirsty they may gulp down a bunch and then throw it back up.
- The same principle applies to food; likely the dog is very hungry, but they may bolt it down and then lose it. If you don’t have any kibble on hand and don’t want to go get some, rice and a protein like ground beef or turkey, or scrambled egg, are nourishing and gentle.
- Give the dog a place. From their perspective, they are still lost, with a stranger, and in a strange place where they don’t know the rules. Putting a towel or blanket on the ground somewhere in the dog’s temporary “area” is fairly easily recognizable by most dogs as meant for them. If you remember the Hyperbole and a Half cartoon about Simple Dog’s adventure being lost, the dog doesn’t have to be brain-damaged to latch onto something like a blanket or towel they were given as their whole new world in a strange place. If you can, try putting the dog in a relatively narrow place/area, like a guest bathroom or mud room. Some dogs will panic in the confined space- but a lot more will go “this is my new den”, and are less likely to soil or damage what’s in their “den”. Do a bit of dogproofing anyway, like putting the toilet paper in a cabinet and unplugging electrical devices.
- Along with access to water and a “theirs” place, bear the weather in mind. In hot weather, shade and relative cool is important, and in cold weather, shelter and relative warmth. Keep the dog’s build and fur in mind when judging how at risk from the elements they might be. Bigger dogs are less vulnerable to cold than smaller dogs; dogs with an undercoat at less vulnerable than those without, and dogs with really short, thin fur are most vulnerable of all. Smaller dogs are less vulnerable to heat than bigger dogs, and short-faced or flat-faced dogs are *much* more vulnerable than dogs with a long nose. The same general rules about coat apply, in reverse.
- If you have your own pets, especially dogs, keep them away from the stranger. They are probably about as thrilled to meet the lost dog as a spouse would be if you unexpectedly brought home a hobo to stay with you indefinitely. The lost dog wants to meet them about as much as anyone invading a home wants to meet the owner, with a shotgun.
- Time to figure out if you have a lost dog, or a stray dog. You’ve probably already checked for collar and tags. You can also check the insides of the ears for a marking tattoo, though these have fallen out of use in favor of microchips. Most vet’s offices and almost all shelters will have scanners that can detect multiple kinds of microchips. Vet’s offices, pet stores, and grocery store bulletin boards are popular places to hang lost pet posters; often shelters get calls from families looking for lost dogs and will file the description. Check Craigslist. Check your local paper’s classifieds. Post “found dog” on Craigslist. If you do a found-dog poster, the same places that are good to hang lost dog posters are good for those. Ask around your neighbors.
Edited to add because I spaced it completely even though I intended to mention: Figure out who your local animal control is obliged to take stray dogs to, and call them. They will definitely have the chip scanner, and they will take the dog’s description, date, and time if the owners call there looking, which if they are at all savvy they likely will. Also call animal control if you cannot catch the dog- it’s their job to, and the dog will be safer with them than loose. If you want to specify that you will take the dog, or at least take responsibility for it, if no one comes looking, you can.
- Once you have essentials taken care of, let the dog do most or all of the approaching that isn’t strictly necessary for things like taking it to the vet for a once-over. Stick to invitations and make approaching likely to end in low-key nice things like small treats and gentle petting.
- Check to see what the dog knows, with simple and common commands like “sit” or “down” or “come” or “shake”. Not only will this tell you a little bit about the dog, the dog may be enormously relieved to find it has some common language with the strangers that have taken it in. Keep it light; you’re not giving an exam, you’re just finding out if you have any common vocabulary.
- If it’s becoming obvious there isn’t a family out there looking for the dog, or at least if there is they can’t be readily contacted by the means already outlined above, time to start thinking about what you’re going to do with the dog next. You can use Petfinder, and talk to local veterinarians, to find out what local rescue groups are around; the local county high-kill shelter is rarely your only option. If the dog is obviously purebred, your best bet is going to be the breed rescue group for that breed; they tend to have very extensive networking. Breed rescue and local breeders are usually mostly the same group of people; if you can’t quickly find a local rescue contact through googling, if you can find a local breeder with a lot of show and trial titles likely they know where to point you. Breed people tend to know everyone else in the breed within a several-state radius.
- Do you want a dog? Before you make that decision, keep firmly in mind that the dog you brought home off the street is not going to be the dog that’s there a week or two weeks from now. You need time to see who the dog is when they’re not exhausted, starving, hurting, and scared out of their minds- and when they think they are in a place or with people that aren’t strange anymore.
- If the dog is staying more than a day or two, you need: leash, collar, food, enzymatic cleaner (even if the dog is housebroken, stress and unfamiliarity may lead to mistakes), at least one broadly appealing chew toy (Kongs are great for this) that you can give to the dog when it picks up something it shouldn’t. These are the base basics you’ll be glad to have on hand. Petsmart and Petco are often open late. Good luck.