As you are aware from the last post, this last weekend we hosted FarmMom and FarmDad while they helped us with the fence. As long as they were coming down anyway and bringing us the half a cow we had purchased from them, they also hauled down a load of the season’s product of the annual creation of steers from calves, of scrappy nibbles fame. Yes, we knew what they were when we ate them the first time at Blogorado. Yes, they brought the raw materials down for us because they know we like them, as food, rather than as novelty or prank value. Yes, they are pretty tasty if you’re not revolted by the idea of eating calf nuts. Honestly I don’t understand why that gets the reactions it does, beyond more “ordinary” offal like liver; it’s meat. Why eating testicles should be so very much more disgusting than eating something’s ass (aka beef round), or biceps, or bone marrow, is utterly and completely beyond my ken. At least with calf fries, you can lay even odds that the animal that owned the raw material is still alive and well.
It was, however, my idea to eat them on Easter, and to expand the menu to also include eggs in some form. Originally the pagan celebration that the Christian one co-opted aspects of (like the eggs and the rabbits as symbology) was an unabashed fertility celebration, so it seemed fitting. Thus, the final menu wound up as calf fries, deviled eggs (which I love), and fried okra since we needed some sort of concession to fiber and were going to be frying things anyway.
This is going to be a little different from the usual genre of these posts, since FarmMom is an old-school cook who uses the venerable measurements “some”, “a bit of”, “enough”, and “to taste” rather than teaspoons and cups. I took a few pictures, of which few turned out, and will attempt to haphazardly set down what I learned. Rather a fair amount of the process, I’m afraid, has been lost to the temptation to fall into chatting about unrelated subjects while FarmMom did her thing.

Caution: do not attempt cooking without your Kitchen Bitch unless your house lacks one entirely. The bad karma will cause years of failed cakes, over-done steaks, and collapsed souffles.
1. The night before, take your frozen calf nuts and place them on the uppermost shelf of your fridge, or whichever shelf of your fridge on which soda cannot be stored without turning into slush. You want things to be half-thawed, leaning more toward still frozen, rather than entirely thawed, as they make the first step of preparing the nuts for consumption much easier. Hard-boil a dozen eggs and stick them in the fridge, they’ll be easier to peel if they’ve had some time cold first.

2. Before you can do anything with the nuts, you need to take off the tough skin. This stuff will resist chewing and can’t even be put down the garbage disposal; if it has any use at all, it’s as canine chewing gum. We elected not to give any to ours and simply disposed of them in the outside trash. Slice down the convex side with a sharp paring knife and peel off the outer skin. This is where the half-frozen part comes in; the skin is much easier to remove if the edible tissue within has not yet had a chance to soften. You want to start with the smaller ones, as they will thaw faster. This is also an excellent way to slice your hand open if you are at all clumsy or careless, so proceed with caution and perhaps a Kevlar glove. Skin all balls. Optional: if any squeamish males are in the house, when you are finished, chase him through the house with your bloody hands shrieking “VAGINA DENTATA!” Bonus points if you can run him into a wall.

This is what they’ll look like when you’re done. As they thaw you’ll lose more of that edible tissue along with your skin, so try to work as quickly as you can without being careless. Set your bowl of balls aside until we’re ready for the frying phase. Now would also be a good time to take your sliced and frozen okra out of the freezer and set somewhere to thaw. (Or, if your local store actually carries fresh okra… slice it up however you do that with okra.)
3. Extract your bowl of hard-boiled eggs from the refrigerator. Start peeling. This is one of those interesting cooking chores in which freshness actually punishes you a bit; as eggs age the whites shrink and peel away from the shell some, making older eggs much easier to peel than fresh ones. Peel until you’re out of shelled eggs.

Interestingly, the peeled eggs feel far more like one would imagine a naked testicle to feel in one’s hands than the actual testicles do. Guess that’s why Spanish speakers call ‘em “huevos”.
4. Slice the eggs in half longitudinally. Deposit the yolks in one bowl and the whites on a large plate or platter. Once you have de-yolked all your eggs, it is now time to contemplate ingredients. You are definitely going to be using some mustard (we used dijon, though the deli kind with the horseradish might have been interesting), some apple cider vinegar, and some mayo; in this case, we also extracted an odd quarter of white onion from the fridge and the sole surviving slice of deli ham and diced them finely and added them to the mix. Throw in some salt and pepper, then mash everything together vigorously until you’ve produced a more or less smooth mixture that can be spooned into the halves of white. Spoon everything into the white halves and arrange on the platter before hitting them all with paprika.

Interesting side note: it is impossible to evenly distribute shaken paprika. Results will resemble a blood spatter pattern from a bludgeoning murder scene no matter what you do. Set platter aside somewhere out of your way and out of dog-muzzle reach.
5. Go grab some saltines. Suggested amount: “a bunch”. Crush them finely; a food processor works better for this than just putting them under wax paper and hitting them with a rolling pin. Mix the results in a small mixing bowl with an appropriate estimation of “some” flour, and somewhat smaller proportions of cayenne pepper, seasoning salt, and regular salt and pepper.
6. Haul out a large cast-iron skillet, or deep fryer if you have such a thing. Pour in an appropriately deep layer of neutral cooking oil with a high smoke point, such as canola or peanut oil. Heat until a pinch of the flour/cracker coating mix immediately starts to fry when dropped in. Get a plate and line it with a paper towel. Grab your okra and roll it around in batches in the coating mixture, then fry it, likewise in batches, turning if it needs it. Okra is ready when it’s more or less dark brown.

Once you’ve cycled all your okra from coating to frying to resting on the plate, stick it in the microwave to retain heat until you’re done with your nuts. Since the coating is light and not thick and greasy like many frying batters, they will reheat in the microwave just fine without getting soggy, should they need it.
7. Repeat the procedure with your calf nuts. Any particularly large ones should be sliced first, as otherwise they will overcook and get tough. Pieces should be within a very rough and ready estimation of evenly sized. The naked nuts are sticky enough that you won’t need an egg wash to get the coating to stick. Fry in batches as you did with the okra; they will need longer to cook than the veggies and will need turning more, especially for the slices.

As with the okra, cycle all the meat through until everything’s cooling on the plate with the paper towel.
Optional: We’re going to have ranch for dipping just because fried things are always better with ranch, but we had good results with a mixture composed mainly of dry mustard, sour cream, and more salt and pepper. If I had to do it over again I’d probably add a dose of the sweet Tabasco I didn’t remember at the time was in the fridge. The okra goes better with ranch, but the spicy/sour mustard sauce went wonderfully with the calf fries.
Eat until you are somewhere between happily full, and sick. Hoist a glass of milk or beer to Eostre and try not to get near anything you’d mind impregnating, at least without precautions.