I like reading good food writing nearly as much as I like eating good food (if not more because I can’t leave a top-notch relleno in my coat pocket to whip out whenever I’m in the mood), and have a thing for regional American cuisines, so Jane and Michael Stern’s books are a natural fit for me. They’re responsible for the Roadfood books and forums, and center around the American eating experience outside of standardized chains and franchises, tuned to national tastes rather than what the locals in a given area have come up with. One of their books, Two For The Road, is mostly essays about the experience of eating for a living and contains several recipes emblematic of the more interesting regions and foodways they’ve travelled through. One, a recipe for baked pork chops from a radio personality in Iowa, made me drool reading the description of eating them, so I determined they’d be next on the list.
Virginia Miller’s Elegant Pork Chops
The marinade:
2 cups soy sauce
1 cup water
1/2 cup dark brown sugar
1 tablespoon molasses
3/4 teaspoon salt
The sauce:
1/3 cup water
1 3/4 cup ketchup
1 1/2 cups chili sauce
1/2 cup light brown sugar
1 tablespoon dry mustard
2 tablespoons Russian salad dressing
The meat:
6-8 pork chops cut as thick as you can find
Combine the marinade ingredients in a baking pan large enough to hold the pork chops in a single layer, add the meat, and marinate for several hours or overnight.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Remove the chops from the marinade and place in a 9 x 13 inch baking pan. Put the pan in the oven, uncovered. Combine all the ingredients for the sauce in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil. After the chops have been in the oven about ten minutes, turn them and cover with the hot baking sauce.
Cover the pan and bake the chops for about 1 hour, until they are tender, turning them several times as they cook. Serve hot, with the sauce spooned over them.
Okay, well, we can throw the light and dark brown sugars out the door and just use whatever’s in the pantry as far as the brown-sugar family goes. Otherwise this looks doable as-is.
1. As soon as you remember that you intended to make these that night, assemble your marinade ingredients. Soy sauce: check. Water: still accessible via sink. Brown sugar: check. Salt: accessible from at least three different sources. Molasses: um.
2. Ask your spouse where the molasses lives. In the pantry, apparently. Open the pantry, which is floor to ceiling crammed with things, with several shelves above eye level, and organized in absolutely no fashion whatsoever. Optional: hum the score from the last scene of Raiders of the Lost Ark, the one with the warehouse.
3. We don’t need Top Men to find the damn molasses and for once we’re going to find something for ourselves without having to hassle Spouse into coming in and digging it up for you. Rummage through the flour, sugar, cocoa mix, honey, canned oysters, canned chipotles, unopened jar of clotted cream, elk jerky, dried squid flakes (?!), chocolate chips, leftover Halloween candy, dill pickles, sauerkraut, canned beans, grits, quinoa, tea, Thousand Island dressing, tomato paste, tahini, and sesame oil as time passes and the disturbed dust in the air mounts.
4. Split the difference and ask Spouse for a hint. On one of the middle two shelves, in a container with a yellow cap. Rummage several times through the middle two shelves, cursing vigorously at various jars of Spouse’s local honey collection, which are all dark as molasses and all capped in yellow.
5. Expand your definition of “the middle two shelves” to include the one one slot up from the bottom. Extract the molasses from the very back of the shelf. Success!
6. We’re halving this recipe as 6-8 pork chops is a bit much for two people, so a gallon freezer bag will do as a marinade-and-chop container. Do some quick (by which I mean laborious) kitchen math and dump the requisite proportions of dry ingredients into the bag. Open the molasses jar and enjoy the incredibly appetizing scent of blended sugar and sulfur. Try to keep as much of the molasses possible inside either the jar, the bag, or the tablespoon, although this will be challenging. Pour in the liquid ingredients and add pork chops. Seal the Ziplock.
7. Make the discovery that the chops and marinade bag require two hands to hold flat and handle, as you want to rest the chops on a refrigerator shelf so that they are both covered and in a single layer. Open the refrigerator door. Curse under your breath as the door closes itself when you turn around to fetch the chops. Repeat. Resolve by balancing on one foot while you hold the door open with the other until you can get your elbow up as you transfer the chops. Now bugger off and go read blogs or something until closer to dinnertime, turning the chops once sometime in the midpoint and wandering in to start the oven preheating twenty minutes or so before nomoclock.
8. Extract the chops and a smallish baking dish and drain the marinade from the bag after you put the chops in the dish. Explain to Kitchen Bitch that we’re not using anything that can really be shared with even very patient dogs. Toss the chops in the oven, find a small saucepan, and start pulling stuff out of the fridge and pantry for the sauce.
9. Ketchup: check. Water: check. Sugar: check. Mustard: check. Russian dressing: check. Chili sauce… well, the only thing we have in the fridge labeled “chili sauce” is Sriracha, since Real New Mexicans make their own chile sauces-qua-sauces as the dish that requires them is made, rather than keeping it around bottled or canned. The recipe calls for 3/4 of a cup of the stuff, once halved. Raise an eyebrow at your Sriracha, which exists to add a dash at a time.
10. Dab a bit of Sriracha on your fingertip and lick it off. Notice the way your tongue tingles vigorously for minutes afterward? Compared to what Iowa housewives had in mind, this may be just a mite aggressive. Glop in an amount that looks like enough to add zing without being considered an assault weapon in Massachusetts.
11. Make up for the lowered volume with extra water and ketchup. Add the rest of the ingredients, kick the burner up to high, and stir continuously until it boils. Remove the pork chops from the oven, glop on the sauce, pop the whole thing back in the oven, and wander off for twenty minutes.
12. Return and turn the chops, then set the timer for another twenty. Sit down and start writing the whole thing up. Type in the part about covering the chops once the sauce goes on, which we did not do. Mother goatfucker.
13. Note glumly the rather reduced state of the sauce when you return to turn again, then makeshift cover with a stockpot lid. Leave it for the last twenty minutes of cook time.
14. Pull it out of the oven, add pork chops to plates, spoon on some sauce over each chop, and serve with the corn Spouse grilled in foil packets over the gas burners. Nom.
These tasted really interesting, though they came out a little bit dry; I don’t know if it was because I neglected to cover for the first two-thirds of the cook time or if an hour was simply too much for only two chops, but either way next time I’d use a meat thermometer and go by internal temperature rather than time. The flavor was good and I tuned the proportion of Sriracha well- it turned out to work quite nicely with the rest of the ingredients in the sauce. I’d like to try this again with bigger chops, cooked for less time. The overall sweet, savory, spicy flavor profile turned out really nice.