I’ve mentioned before that I like turnips, and the only real upside of winter in general, food-wise, is that I have an excellent excuse to make all the root vegetable-centric stuff I want, as I tend to love them all. Beets, rutabagas, turnips, parsnips, jicama, sweet potatoes, radishes- if it used to be covered in dirt, odds are I’ll like it braised or roasted. (Not boiled, please.) This seems to be a personal peculiarity of mine, as in America the only broadly acceptable root vegetable is the relatively boring and flavorless white potato.
So I’ve wanted to make the Pioneer Woman’s turnip gratin ever since I saw the recipe, but never could find a convincing argument to add it as my contribution to the holiday table, as Stingray and I are, as typical, the only people in the family that are remotely enthused about turnips. I’ve floated the idea of just saying it’s “gratin” and letting people figure out for themselves whether they like it, but Stingray assures me this will not work. So, even though we’re going to wind up with a metric ton of leftovers, I came to the conclusion that if I ever want to try it, it’ll have to be for just the two of us. Even though I maintain that with that much cheese, butter, and garlic, it could be sliced softball in there and just about anybody would give it a rave.
The nice thing about Pioneer Woman is that she illustrates her recipes photo by photo and step by step; no Minimalist Chef for her. So if you want an actual easy-to-follow recipe and not a record of my fumblings, follow the link and use that. The brief, printer-friendly recipe is at the bottom and is the one I’ll be quoting.
Ingredients
* 4 whole Turnips
* 3 cloves (to 4 Cloves) Garlic
* 2 cups Gruyere Cheese
* 4 Tablespoons (to 6 Tablespoons) Butter
* Chicken Broth
* Heavy Cream
* Salt And Pepper (to Taste)
* Fresh Herbs (to Taste)
Stingray refused to buy a fresh brick of Gruyere for the occasion, as the stuff is twenty bucks a brick, so I had to rely on whatever was left of the one he used to make french onion soup two weeks ago plus whatever amount of mozzarella I felt it needed to fill out the cheese requirements. I also used no fresh herbs, as our outdoor garden is dormant for the winter, our indoor herb garden is quite, quite dead as we both have a black thumb when it comes to keeping plants alive anywhere but outside, and I didn’t think to get any at the grocery store. That place has been like the fall of Saigon all holiday season, and we tend to be trying to get the hell out of there as quickly as possible.
Preparation Instructions
Preheat the oven to 375º.
Start by peeling and thinly slicing the turnips and mincing the cloves of garlic. Grate about 2 cups of Gruyere cheese.
In a large oven-proof skillet melt 2-3 tablespoons of butter over medium-low heat. Place a single layer of turnips on top of the butter. Next, sprinkle a little of the garlic on top, then – and this is purely optional and really not all that necessary – add a couple of tablespoons of butter. Next drizzle a healthy splash of chicken broth over the turnips. Next, do the same with the cream. Now add a nice layer of Gruyere – about ½ cup. Sprinkle a bit of salt, but not much as the cheese is already salty.
Repeat these layers twice more. Sprinkle on some freshly ground black pepper.
Now pop the whole thing into the over and bake for about 20 minutes or until the top is hot, brown and bubbly.
1. Preheat the oven. Start assembling your lab station mise. Get the turnips and- wow, that’s quite a healthy growth. Guess it’s been a little while since we brought these home. No worries; turnips keep pretty well even sprouted. They’ll just be not quite as sweet, is all. Lop off the tops and discard; the spouse probably won’t eat turnip greens even if we keep ‘em. Cast a critical eye over your collection of turnips and fret a bit; the recipe says “four turnips”, but turnips are about as uniform in size and shape as hailstones. Too much? Not enough? Shove it out of your mind; it’s gratin, not baking.
2. Peel the turnips over the garbage can. Fortunately, they don’t produce slime in quite the same inimitable fashion as potatoes do, so there’s no worries about fumbling the damn things like a greased football. Don’t worry about fliers, Kitchen Bitch will keep the floor clean for you, as she’s the only other family member besides Stingray that shares your affection for turnips.
3. Haul out the mandoline and blink at it for awhile, as it is only slightly less mysterious-looking than an obsidian monolith, and we all know our track record with kitchen gadgets with spotty doucmentation. Stare at it for a bit until you notice the sharp blade in the center; try dragging a peeled turnip over it with a bit of force. It produces a slice. Apparently all these other grooves are to keep the vegetable moving easily. That was easier than it looked.
4. Let the thought that what you’re doing seems slightly dangerous pass through your mind like a fleeting summer cloud as you drag the turnip over the blade again and again. Repeat until the inevitable happens and you slice open one of your fingers. As you stanch the bleeding, your concerned spouse will fish the handguard that came with the mandoline out of a drawer for you. Allow him to demonstrate, as the thing looks like a gynecology device from the Hellraiser series. As it turns out, it works by spiking the turnips so that you can drag the turnip over the blade with several inches of spike and black plastic between your flesh and the blade.
5. Begin the somewhat boring task of turning all four of your turnips into thin slices. Work out that you can keep the slicing going as the turnip gets thinner by rotating the turnip and re-spiking it more shallowly; nonetheless you’re still going to wind up with a bastard slice at the end that is much thicker than the others and yet completely impossible to safely slice thinner. Optional: let your mind wander over the fates of the various singers on the nineties alternative station you’ve taken to listening to while cooking. Cobain: suicide. Gwen Stefani: batshit. Fiona Apple: technically still has a career, but nobody seems to have noticed. Courtney Love: undead.
6. Once you’ve arranged your sliced turnips in haphazard stacks to save room on the cutting board, retrieve your partial brick of Gruyere. Raise an eyebrow at it; no way that’s going to be two cups. Fish the shredded mozzarella out of the fridge and set aside to supplement when needed. Start grating the Gruyere. Wish you had a handguard for the grater as you scrape your fingers several times as the cheese whittles down closer and closer to the rind. Optional: Kitchen Bitch thinks she deserves the entire rind. She’s wrong. Call your other dog and give him half. Now you have double the Akita to step around, as he won’t leave.
7. Wow. That worked out to exactly two cups of Gruyere. It’s the Miracle of the Leftover European Cheese.
8. Select four cloves of garlic, press with a cleaver to get them out of their skins, and remind yourself that mincing the garlic with a big sharp knife and using the dedicated garlic-mincing devices are roughly equal in degrees of pain in the ass factor, but the knife is at least easier to clean. Wash your hands and the knife once through. Damn sticky delicious garlic.
In a large oven-proof skillet melt 2-3 tablespoons of butter over medium-low heat.
9. Haul out the giant cast iron skillet and whack three tablespoons’ worth of butter in there. Turn the heat up to medium low. Amuse yourself by twisting the pan around like a handheld pinball game to get the melting knob of butter evenly coating the skillet. Admire the pretty white snowflake patterns the milk sugars make.
Place a single layer of turnips on top of the butter. Next, sprinkle a little of the garlic on top, then – and this is purely optional and really not all that necessary – add a couple of tablespoons of butter. Next drizzle a healthy splash of chicken broth over the turnips. Next, do the same with the cream. Now add a nice layer of Gruyere – about ½ cup. Sprinkle a bit of salt, but not much as the cheese is already salty.
10. Gather up what looks like roughly one-third of the turnips and start arranging. Put the thickest slices, and the ones with one thick edge and one thin, so that they cover the edges of the pan, and thinner slices and edges toward the middle. The most mangled, mutant slices can be fed to Kitchen Bitch and to your other dog, who is apparently into turnips as well. Take roughly one-third of the garlic and sprinkle. Wash your hands of the sticky garlic. Slice off another tablespoon of butter and break it up to drop pieces over the turnip. Wash your hands again. This could get old. Splash the chicken broth and the cream.
11. Sprinkle about one-third of the Gruyere over your layer. That… doesn’t look like enough cheese, recipe be damned. We’re already piling on the milkfat, so whatever. Supplement with a generous handful of the mozzarella, which you never got around to putting back in the fridge anyway. Dash a little salt-and-pepper mix over the whole thing.
12. Repeat with the remaining thirds of everything. Hand-washing including, which does indeed get old.
Now pop the whole thing into the over and bake for about 20 minutes or until the top is hot, brown and bubbly.
13. Tweak the oven dial irritably as it never did come up all the way to 375 and shove it in. Set the kitchen timer for twenty minutes and retreat with a cold beer to go start writing or whatever it is you do during cooking interludes.
14. That is not brown, although it is bubbly. Give it another five minutes.
15. It’s at least brown in places, the steak still needs cooking, and everybody’s hungry. Pull it out and leave it to sit there in the cast iron and retain heat while your spouse puts meat to fire. Once he’s done with that, spoon it up and chow down.
This was as tasty as it sounded, although it would indeed have been better with turnips as sweet as I know turnips are capable of becoming when cooked. Next time I’ll also let it brown more- the brownest portions of the crust were the best part. I’ll also use quite a bit more cheese; it could have used more Gruyere, more mozzarella, both, or even a third white cheese for variety. I should have taken it as a hint when Pioneer Woman mentioned she used a lot more than three cups; Stingray tends to double cheese portions in dishes like this. Still, all of this would merely be further refinement of something that is already very good as-is.