LabRat went to school in New Orleans. LabRat developed a taste for the local chow. I stayed here in the southwest, where food that resembles something dredged from a swamp is generally treated with suspicion. Since she generously agreed to come and put up with my ranting, various hobbies usually categorized as “compensating,” and general misanthropy, she occasionally puts in requests for food she likes. Usually this is simply code for “for the love of jesusallahbuddahvishnu, enough with the red meat already!” Sometimes though a craving really is just a craving, which leads us to today’s topic: gumbo. I remain by and large unimpressed with most bayou-based cuisine, but this one is actually tasty enough that it doesn’t take much torque to the arm to convince me to make a batch. The original recipe came from here, but as with everything else I get my hands on, I’ve tinkered with it some. I have no idea how much or how well any of you folks at the other end of this here internet tube can cook, and I labor under the delusion that more words equals more interesting (and it’s a slow morning stress testing an FTP server), so I’ll run through the whole process so that hopefully anyone can follow.
For those of you who don’t like following links, here’s the original ingredient list. It will be modified.
1 cup oil
1 cup flour
2 large onions, chopped
2 bell peppers, chopped
4 ribs celery, chopped
4 - 6 cloves garlic, minced
4 quarts chicken stock
2 bay leaves
2 teaspoons Creole seasoning, or to taste
1 teaspoon dried thyme leaves
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 large chicken (young hen preferred), cut into pieces
2 pounds andouille or smoked sausage, cut into 1/2″ pieces
1 bunch scallions (green onions), tops only, chopped
2/3 cup fresh chopped parsley
Filé powder to taste
Unless you are feeding a full battalion, the first thing to do is cut all quantities in half, except for the garlic, and bay leaves. Even doing this, you will have leftovers. So far we’ve gotten about eight bowls worth, and there’s still enough in the fridge for lunch. Toss the bell peppers entirely, because LabRat hates bell peppers like I hate hippies and chases me around the back yard flinging unripe prickly pears at me if any gets within 300 yards of her food. I try to work in a nice and logical order so as to minimize the amount of cleaning and such I have to do, especially in the middle of cooking such as when the feared and deadly raw chicken touches something.
Peel the garlic and onion and give them a rough chop. Toss them both in the food processor until they’re chopped to the size you prefer, because we’re lazy and chopping onions by hand is a nuisance. Just leave them in there for now, and keep the lid on to keep the kitchen from drowning in the tear-gas you just produced in there. Cut the celery stalks in thirds after trimming the ends and chop them by hand. It’s just celery after all, I’m not that lazy. Set that aside and chop the scallions, which you should also set aside. Now that all the greenery is dealt with, we can befoul and contaminate the cutting board with raw meat.
Split the andouille into quarters lengthwise, and then chop into roughly quarter-inch chunks. The place we get ours from runs about five links to the pound, but your mileage will probably vary. When chopped, set it aside for the moment and break out the chicken. The original calls for a whole bird, but unless you’re going to make your own stock afterwards, de-boning and all that jazz falls too far into the pain-in-the-ass category for now. I just chop up two or three good sized breasts into bite sized pieces. Spread those out over your cutting board (or over a couple of plates if you don’t have room), and hit them with a good dose of salt, pepper, and Cajun stuff. Don’t worry too much about how one side is seasoned and the other isn’t. It’s all going into liquid anyway, so everything will blend.
Now it’s time for the actual cooking. Take a non-stick pan and put it over medium-high to high heat. On the worthless piece of crap devil-designed glass-topped gutless inferior approximation of a stove we have here, I usually go for about 8 or 9 on the dial. Those of you with stoves not marketed by Fisher-Price as “My First Cooktop” may not need to go quite as high, but we’ll still need some high heat on the pan. When a drop of water dances vigorously on the surface, dump in half the sausage and sauté for a couple of minutes until the meat starts to brown. Transfer to a plate, and repeat with the other half of the sausage. When that’s done, try to keep as much of the sausage grease in the pan as possible, and add about half a tablespoon of butter. If the pan is hot enough, this will melt, foam, and subside and give off that nutty about-to-burn smell by the time you can get the chicken from the counter. Repeat the browning on the chicken, again working in batches to keep from overcrowding and cooling the pan. Be sure to replenish the butter between batches as needed. When the last of the chicken is done and the pan is still hot, kill the heat and pour in a couple shots of red wine. I’m not a wine snob, so whether different types make a difference is beyond me. For reference, the exact type of red I use is “bottled.” I think it has a cork, too. My rule of thumb is if it isn’t good enough to drink on its own, it isn’t good enough to cook with. There will be lots of sizzling and steam, so watch your hands. Also, keep open flame away at this point, or you may be asking for help drawing eyebrows back on your face. Let that reduce by about half, then pour it over the meat you’ve got sitting there tempting you to nibble while you cook and causing the dog to stare at the counter like the meaning of life is up there.
From here, I stick pretty much to the recipe. Get the oil nice and hot over medium heat in a big pot (look for it to shimmer) then add the flour and start stirring. Personally I wound up using about ¾ cup of flour to a half cup of oil, but we like a somewhat thicker roux. By the time the stuff in the pot is the color of a wet adobe brick, it’s ready. Be careful at this stage because that crap burns like Greek fire if you get any on you. When the roux is ready, dump in all the veggie matter except for the scallions and parsley, and stir like hell. Your previously liquid-seeming goop will clump around the moisture in the veggies and leave you a thick plant-filled paste. Stir this all around the pot for about a minute (the original four is way too long). Pour in the chicken stock or broth, and keep your hand out of the way of the cloud of steam coming up. Add in the pile of meat you’ve got sitting there, and scrape as much juice and reduced wine as you can off of whatever it was sitting on and into the pot. Add the bay leaves and thyme. Add in my final twist, ¾ tsp of mustard powder, and stir everything together. Bring it to a boil, then back it down to a simmer and let it sit there and get happy for an hour or so, as the original says. Add the scallions, parsley and file powder at the last minute (don’t let the file boil, or it’ll turn things stringy and nasty) and serve over a little rice with french bread, along with enough beer to make it look like soup instead of swamp water.