While LabRat is fully in the grip of NyQuil to deal with the cold I brought home, my own mental faculties are only slightly improved as I shake off the last of it myself – don’t expect anything award winning in this post. Taking this into consideration, it’s probably for the best that I scrap my notion of pointing out how skilled orators are often considered Satanic in some form or other, linking that with how often Republicans are labled some variant of “the Devil” vs. Democrats, and tying it all up with a pretty Obama-shaped bow. I tell you, that cherry-flavored stuff is not to be trifled with.
Rather than leave you all with nothing for a few days, it’s time to once again trot out the “Our Town Is Frickin’ Weird” trolley for another lap around the hill. Last week while trying to find the hours of one of the local eateries, LabRat stumbled upon a travel wiki. With entries concerning local attractions, accomodations, cuisine, and so forth, we were somewhat shocked to find a page dedicated to our sleepy little redneck white bread mountain town.
While broadly speaking the page is technically accurate, it decidedly lacks for flavor. Let’s just take a look at where it falls flat, shall we?
“Get around
The downtown area is compact, and the museums and most restaurants are within easy walking distance of the main hotels and many of the B&Bs. Public transportation by Atomic City Transit includes both fixed routes and an on-demand service.
Many Los Alamos residents bicycle to work and around town. Cycling is feasible for visitors as well, but be aware that the town is at an elevation of about 7320 feet (2231 meters) and quite hilly. Puffing up the hills before you’ve acclimated to the altitude can be a surprisingly exhausting experience. White Rock is nearly a thousand feet lower and about 10 miles (16 km) away by road; riding to it on a bike can be a thrill, but oh, that hill coming back! Atomic City Transit will be adding bike racks to its buses.”
Sweet shivering Shinto priests in Akita, if you come to Los Alamos and plan to ride a bike for transportation anywhere except a mountain trail, be sure to stop by so I can punch your face in. Now I’m going to try not to turn this into a total tangent rant about our local cyclists, but I will say that I have not met a single person in town who actually likes and encourages such activities who was not a cyclist him or herself. Our mountain trails are absolutely gorgeous, and perfectly suited to the athletic type who wish to go wheeling about without an engine, and I wish those folks all the best. Our roads, however, are not as well suited. In Los Alamos proper, there are three main roads: Central, Trinity, and Diamond. I will grant that it is more-or-less possible to ride a bicycle safely on these roads, provided it isn’t rush hour. If it’s rush hour and you try to ride while 20,000 people use three roads, you’re an idiot. Period. As for the highways, two roads in and out of town look like they came straight from a James Bond movie. There is no shoulder and there is a cliff about five feet away. On other roads, there is still no shoulder, plenty of blind curves, and while there isn’t a cliff to plummet from, there is still no place for a car to go should one come upon a two-wheeled hood ornament at an inopportune time.
Look, just don’t ride a bike in Los Alamos on the roads, ok? We’ll all be happier. Right. Moving on.
“See:
* The downtown area contains a number of artifacts of the early days of the “Manhattan Project” to build the bomb, and the even earlier days “when Los Alamos was a ranch school” (the title, incidentally, of an interesting little booklet on the history of the town that is available in local bookstores). Start at pretty Fuller Lodge, one of the old ranch-school buildings and a local landmark, and work your way out.
* Bradbury Science Museum, 15th St. and Central Ave, Los Alamos, 87545, (505) 667-4444 [2]. Sa-M 1PM-5PM, Tu-F 9AM-5PM. Explains the principles behind atomic energy and its uses in peace and war. Also presents the historical and social issues surrounding atomic energy. Adjacent bookstore (Otowi Station, good selection of regional and technical books) and gift shop. Free admission.
* The Los Alamos Historical Society [3] maintains a small museum on the history of the area, with associated bookstore containing a number of books written by Historical Society members on local culture, history, recreational opportunities, etc., including the one listed below under “References.” 1921 Juniper (next to Fuller Lodge), (505) 662-6272 (24-hour information line).
* The Art Center at Fuller Lodge [4] maintains an Art Gallery with exhibits that change monthly. The Art Center promotes the development of local and regional artists. The center provides art classes and hosts two Arts & Crafts Fairs, one in August and another in October. Special interest groups meet at the Art Center for photography, Life Drawing, Painting and Collagists gathernings. The Art Center operates a Gallery Shop that specializes in hand made art works including jewerly, picture postcards, paintings, ceramics and more. Regular Hours are 10 AM to 4 PM Monday-Saturday. The Art Center’s website has class and exhibit schedules. (505)662-9331. “
I have no major bones to pick with this section. The art center isn’t my cup of tea, to put it mildly, but Fuller Lodge is a fascinating building, and the museums listed are well worth your time. Personally, I prefer the Historical Society’s museum, as it deals more with life here in town and less on LANL’s role past present and future, but I may be biased as the Bradbury museum is where we usually wind up taking guests first, who then don’t want to see the other one. The most interesting part of the Bradbury museum, personally, is the comment book near the exhibit concerning the pros and cons of nuking Japan. While occasionally there is a comment of actual worth, most are simply a hilarious illustration of people who Just Don’t Get It (examples here from last year’s Hiroshima anniversary). If you do plan to go, spend a few extra bucks and try to find your own -unedited- copy of “The Town that Never Was.” The version they play at the museum has been cut, shamefully, to about sixteen minutes. The original is closer to 45, and is much more informative and illuminating about the town and life here during the war. The edits were made, supposedly, because material presented in it would be of value to (Iran) foreign (Iran) nations (Iran) trying (Iran) to (Iran) go nuclear. How aspects of life at the original Ranch School that was here before the Manhattan Project will further the enrichment of uranium eludes me.
“The Black Hole, [5] a surplus/salvage/junk lot at 4015 Arkansas (and more formally known as “Los Alamos Sales Company,” although absolutely nobody among the locals, even its proprietor, uses the name), is known locally as the best place to see genuine LANL artifacts and get a real feel for the contrary nature of the town. Drop by and buy some oddity, but do it soon; the proprietor, one of the most notable eccentrics in a town well endowed with the breed, is well along in years.”
Fuck the Black Hole, and fuck Ed Grothus. The best thing you could do during a visit to Los Alamos would be to firebomb this miserable hypocrite’s shit-pile and piss on the ashes. “Don Juan De Eduardo De Los Alamos,” as the miserable town pustule calls himself, is a subject for a rant all its own that could span an even greater length than the cyclists. Having worked for the lab for a good chunk of his life, he now makes his living by decrying the lab while selling LANL surplus from the salvage yard at a huge markup. In the midst of telling anyone who will listen, and even more who won’t, why LANL is the worst thing to ever happen to the world and how nuclear fission is the worst abomination in the history of ever (and I am only exaggerating through simplifying his frequent inane blitherings in local public forums), he has spent the last few years extoling the virtues of Chinese labor and government by building a huge granite anti-nuclear monument, which only he wants. He tried to donate this 50-foot-tall obelisk to the town, and was told in polite governmental nomenclature to piss up a rope. At least the county council gets something right now and then.
“Ashley Pond, or is it Ashley Pond Pond?”
Whatever you call it, watch out for the copius amounts of duck crap, insanely agressive geese, and water that wouldn’t qualify as clean in Detroit. It’s pretty if you’re just driving by though.
“Eat
Los Alamos used to have a well-deserved reputation as a culinary wasteland, but things have improved considerably in recent years.”
This is a bald-faced lie. A lie this immense casts doubt on the honor and integrity of even the family of whoever wrote it. There are three good restaraunts in town: Chili Works, Cafe Sushi, and Bob’s Bodacious BBQ. The latter two suffer from never being open. Have you ever heard of a BBQ joint that closes Saturday and Sunday? They’re only open a few hours a day during the week, and trying to figure out when Cafe Sushi will be open is even worse. For Cafe Sushi, it can at least be reasonable since you can only cram so much fresh fish into the hole-in-the-wall they operate out of. For bonus points, both of these rarely open shops have been complaining of late about road work near their establishments preventing customers from coming in. Having braved the minor detour on a weekday afternoon only to find them closed, I am less than sympathetic.
Chili Works, however, is quite possibly the best greasy spoon in the state. It isn’t formal. It isn’t pretty. But the fact that the line can, has, and undoubtedly will again grow to over twice the length of the parking lot should tell you what you need to know. They even have their own Greasy Spoon Language for the just about every breakfast burrito permutation they serve. Me, I like the Cricket – Chorizo, Red chile and Cheese.
“Los Alamos contains more churches than bars, which is a probably sufficient commentary on the night life.”
Enough said. I actually don’t know how many churches there are in town, but I can think of about 20 just off the top of my head. NOTHING is open later than 8:30 except the grocery stores and a bar or two, and most things are closed by 6, some eateries included.
“Stay safe
Violent crime is almost unknown in Los Alamos; it is one of the safest communities you’ll ever visit. The biggest lawbreaking threat to life and limb is drunk drivers. Northern New Mexico has an unfortunate and well-deserved reputation for DUI problems. Until recently Los Alamos was an exception to this, but not any more. Be alert when driving on the arterial roads after 10 p.m. or so, particularly on Friday and Saturday nights. Another driving hazard is wildlife. Herds of elk come down from the Jemez Mountains during the winter and often congregate around the roads. If your car hits an elk at highway speed, the elk may lose, but you will most assuredly not win. Again, be careful driving after sundown during the winter months. “
It would be more accurate to say that the police in Los Alamos were more inclined to look the other way until recently. Fortunately, since there’s nothing open after sundown anyway, the roads are almost entirely empty so you have plenty of room to negotiate around the occasional drunk. As for the elk, you better be on the ball. Northern New Mexico apparently is home to the most suicidal herd of elk in the known world. Either that, or the herd considers it sport to see who can take out the biggest vehicle in the most spectacular fashion.
“One final note: bubonic plague is endemic to northern New Mexico, and plague-bearing fleas and rodents have been trapped from within the city limits. As cautioned in the article on Bandelier National Monument, if you see a distressed or dead rodent or other small animal, leave it alone; buzzards are immune to plague, you are not.”
And don’t forget Hanta Virus!
In all fairness, the town is beautiful but basically dead. It’s home to a bunch of folks who live to work and not much else. If any of y’all are going to be in this neck of the woods, we’d be happy to show you around, but don’t expect the tour to take terribly long, and bring a book for when it’s done.