Okay, the close runner up when I polled y’all awhile back on what you’d like to see here was the hash, so here it is. This recipe is from Bruce Aidells and Dennis Kelly’s The Complete Meat Cookbook, where its given title is “Hammy Yammy Hash”. That is the first and last time I will ever type that phrase. I have some dignity and so does my food. It’s pork and root vegetable hash, dammit.
The specific recipe is actually meant to be one of those in the book that’s essentially a tasty way to prepare leftovers from one of the previous recipes, and this one is meant to be subsequent to a meal of ham steaks or pork chops with an apple and cider pan sauce. Since planning the dinner menu is one of those chores that tends to be accopanied by a lot of blank stares and “ummmm”, we filled a slot earlier in the week with that recipe that we doubled and I kept two pork chops and some of the sauce to use with this one. If you want to do it just the way I did, earlier in your week, brown some pork chops or ham steaks in a big, heavy nonstick pan. Then, to the pan add the following ingredients:
2 cups apple cider, 1/2 cup packed light or dark brown sugar, 1 cup chopped dried apples, 1/2 teaspoon ground sage, 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon, 1/4 cup cider vinegar
Boil rapidly until the liquid is reduced to a little under two cups. Whisk in 1.5 tablespoons of dijon mustard and reduce to a simmer. Return the steaks or chops to the pan and cook over low heat for 10-15 minutes more. Put the meat on a platter and reduce the sauce more to a syrupy consistency if you have to. Serve. Save some sauce and meat for the damned hash if you’re going to bother with this runup at all. (Also I would consider cutting the sugar back quite a bit- this was very tasty but too aggressively sweet*.)
Alternatively, you can just use any leftover pork or ham with enough integrity to be diced, and instead of that sauce use maple syrup (uch, I wouldn’t) or a mixture of apple cider and brown sugar.
ANYWAY. On to the hash. We need:
1 1/2 cups peeled, diced rutabaga
2 cups peeled, diced butternut squash
2 1/2 cups peeled, diced red yams or leftover baked sweet potato
2 cups chopped onions
2 cups diced pork
2-3 tablespoons olive oil or melted butter
1/2 teaspoons dried thyme
pinch each ground ginger and cinnamon
1/2 cup apple and cider sauce, or maple syrup, or 2 tablespoons brown sugar dissolved in 1/2 cup cider
3/4 cup shredded cheddar cheese (optional)
As I said, we made the pork chops in apple and cider sauce earlier in the week, so I had both the chops and the sauce ready for those ingredients. The grocery store had “yams” (red-skinned sweet potatoes, real yams are something else again and look like dead toads), so I elected to go with those instead of screwing around with baking sweet potatoes. I had no earthly idea about how much of any given root vegetable translates into cup measurements, so squinting at the proportions in the recipe plus the relative sizes of the vegetables in the store, I shrugged and picked up two medium-sized rutabagas, two yams, and two of the presliced quarters of butternut squash my store had in the produce section. (Didn’t want to mess around with a whole butternut and it saved work.)
1. Holy cats that’s a lot of “peeled and diced” things. First things first- let’s have some music to knife to. Last week’s 90’s alternative was a bit weird when Kurt Cobain started wailing “RAPE ME” while we were slicing mushrooms, so let’s try blues this time. Bound to be better**. Collect your implements: cutting board, favorite knife, peeler. The peeler may require some archaeological work in the drawers and cabinets- if so, wash it first.
2. Might as well go in listed ingredient order. Choose a rutabaga, lop off the top and bottom to make a more even gripping/slicing surface, and start peeling. As you begin navigating rough, irregular skin with highly variable degrees of force needed to peel while the blade frequently goes close to the hand holding the rutabaga, begin fantasizing about a different peeler. Make a note to yourself for the next visit to the cooking store. Remove all skin from both rutabagas.
3. Squash next! Since these are presliced quarters and butternut squash have nice, smooth surfaces with a gentle curve, this bit of peeling will go like a dream. Peel, peel, peel, with a merry tune.
4. Time to tackle the yams, which make the rutabagas look like racquetballs when it comes to regular surface and skin thickness. It helps to peel the narrowest end first and proceed toward the fattest- that way you’re not grating perfectly good yam mass off in huge sheets every time you get through a tough section and your hand and peeler go shooting forward. Easier on the risk of shaving off your own skin, too. Eventually the yams will be peeled.
5. Now comes the “fun” part: we’re going to learn how to dice on the fly. Slicing is easy- nice even strokes that proceed linearly- and so are chopping and mincing, which are basically just attacking the food with a knife until it’s pulverized down to the required level of “tiny pieces”. Dicing, on the other hand, requires creating pieces that are more or less the same size out of food units that are not shaped like cubes. Oh god.
6. First we’ll try it with the rutabaga! First technique tried: Halve the rutabaga, then quarter it, then keep on halving rutabaga units until you have pieces about the right size. Advantages: intuitive and easy to execute. Disadvantages: pieces are awkwardly shaped, not all the same size, and it took FORBLOODYEVER.
7. It’s not going to ruin anything if we’ve got a bit too much or a bit too little of anything, but in the spirit of trying not to be off by orders of magnitude, let’s take time out to grab a measuring cup and see just how much rutabaga we’ve got. Hmmm- it appears to be roughly a cup and a quarter of diced material per medium-sized rutabaga. We’ll put the other three quarters of rutabaga in a sealable baggie and I’m sure we’ll use them later for, um, something. Maybe more hash if this turns out nice.
8. Next we’ll have a go at the squash! Second technique tried: Slice the quarters of butternut, then line up the curved slices in lines a bit shorter than your blade, then slice again. Then very roughly chop to try and impose some order on the still-too-big pieces. Advantages: faster than the previous tried technique. Disadvantages: pieces still very unevenly sized. Also, squash is annoyingly sticky on the blade. On the plus side, the two quarters of butternut turn out to be worth almost exactly two cups of diced material.
9. Yam next. Juding by the volumetrics on the last two veggies, we have got waaaay too much peeled yam. Oh well. Time for technique number three: slice the sweet potato into thick rounds, then stack two or three rounds on top of each other and make several lengthwise slices. Turn the stack and repeat. Advantages: best technique so far for evenly sized pieces and reasonable speed. Disadvantages: probably wouldn’t have worked so well on a more or less sticky vegetable.
10. As it turns out, the larger yam, diced, is just a bit more than two and a half cups, so pop the other one in another baggie. Maybe we’ll grate it and the leftover rutabaga and have another run at fried vegetable pancakes.
11. Extract half an onion*** from the fridge, peel off the remaining paper, lop off the bottom, and start chopping. Ahhh. Bliss. Hack that allium down into submission! Transfer as much of the debris as possible from your cutting board to your measuring cup- perfectly, almost exactly two cups’ worth. Tidy the counter up a bit from where you got a little too enthusiastic on the chopping.
12. Get the baggie with the leftover pork chops and sauce. Extract the pork chops leaving as much of the leftover sauce and apple behind as possible. Slice each loin chop down the middle, then dice the resultant halves. Since meat has a dice-friendly consistency and chops are pretty flat, the cross-slice method will work well here as well. YOU ARE FINALLY DONE CHOPPING AND DICING JESUS HAPLOID CHRIST FINALLY.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a large bowl, toss the rutabaga cubes with 1 to 1 1/2 tablespoons of the oil or butter. Spread in a large baking dish and bake for 10 minutes.
13. Yeah… somewhere in all that produce disassembly, you forgot you were going to have to turn on the oven and cook at some point. Ass. Turn the oven to 350 degrees. Toss your rutabaga… pieces… with some oil and spread in a large baking dish. The oven is now up to something under 200. Find a book.
In the same bowl, toss the squash in the remaining oil or butter. Season with salt and pepper, thyme, ginger and cinnamon and add to rutabagas along with the onions and diced ham. (If you’re using uncooked sweet potatoes, toss them with oil along with the squash.)
14. Now that you’re a few chapters in and the oven is ready, toss the rutabagas in the oven and set the timer. Throw the squash and yams into the bowl. Toss. That’s not nearly enough oil left to coat- hit it with some more. Much better. Now it’s time for a very exciting interlude to hunt for the thyme! Throw open every cabinet in the kitchen and ransack the spice rack! Get the stepladder! Find the oregano and the parsley and the dried bouquet garni mix and every dry leaf spice you own except the thyme!
15. Locate the thyme on the counter behind you where you never put it up after last week. Ass.
16. Add the pinches of cinnamon and ginger. Tenatively strew the bowl with conservative amounts of salt and pepper- you can fix too little easier than too much. Toss. Once the rutabagas are done with their initial bake, throw absolutely everything into the baking dish except the sauce and cheese and mix up as thoroughly as you can.
Mix well and bake about 45 minutes or until the vegetables are fork-tender, turning mixture occasionally with a spatula. If using leftover sweet potatoes, add them in the last 10 minutes of cooking.
17. Time for hurry up and wait. I settled for three fifteen minute increments on the kitchen timer with two breaks for spatula rearrangement.
18. 45 minutes later, using our trusty and highly calibrated Cooking Fork, the vegetables are… not fork-tender! FAILURE. TIME PENALTY TEN MINUTES.
When done, stir in the maple syrup or brown sugar dissolved in apple cider and mix until everything is well coated. Sprinkle with the cheese, if using, and bake for 5 to 10 minutes longer.
19. Okay, now that we pass the fork test, let’s address the sauce. Pouring it into a measuring cup, that’s… about half of what we want. Nab a bottle of hard cider from the fridge and top it off. Keep the rest for yourself. Sprinkle on the cheese- cheddar cheese and apples are a winning combination and it won’t hurt the rest. Pop back into the oven for another ten to let the cheese melt and bubble while you go enjoy your cider.
20. Extract from oven and spoon into the serving vessel of your choice. Nom.
This turned out reasonably well and there were no major disasters. It was tasty enough and worked well for the basic purpose of hash- converting leftovers and long-keeping vegetables into dinner. If anything it was on the bland side; if I make it again I’ll be looking to jazz it up, maybe with some garlic, maybe with some more salt, maybe just with more cheese. I also might consider roasting the veggies longer or at a higher temperature and then adding in the pork near the end of the cooking time.
Total prep time: ~2 hours not counting oven time.
*Or, try it as written first. Upon preview Stingray realized he’d forgotten the mustard when he made this. With that the sauce might balance better.
**Not really. Way too much wailing about being drunk and destitute. Not actually a huge change from Cobain. Next week we’ll try death metal- they will be the darkest, most brutal mashed sweet potatoes EVER.
***”A woman always has half an onion left over, no matter the size of the onion, the dish, or the woman.” – Terry Pratchett, Monstrous Regiment.